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Wednesday, September 04, 2002

Shredding

Surf's up, so with much difficulty I convinced myself to trek down to the beach this... mornnninnggg. (There, that wasn't so bad! See, I can say it, I know the word, it's part of my vocabulary, yeah.)

The water was pluck full of neoprene-clad homo sapiens bobbing waist-high in the water like sinking ducks and I didn't think I had much chance to catch a wave of my own. But as is becoming more and more the norm, I seemed to spot the outside sets way before anyone else, so I got to play lots of diving-duck slalom.

Even when I was just one of the ducks in a row, the overhead waves were hungry, and though I kept expecting someone to emerge from the white water behind me they never did. My board was good today--the waves were finally big enough for it and it is fast. Cutting across the faces, and shooting up into the air just before the waves closed out after long rides, I had no sentimental thoughts for my old board today.

Too bad there're so few days of the year with good waves and warm water.

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