Thursday, November 11, 1999
Surfed Honolua Bay for the first time since I got here. What a zoo. But not the normal zoo
of intense Hawaiian surfers who are really good. The place was infested with kooks on
longboards hogging all the set waves and kids on boogie boards with serious attitude problems.
There were also some decent shortboard surfers, but all of them, even the locals who rip, were
intensely frustrated by the longboarders and spongers. Weird. It's good and bad. I was
expecting a stricter Hawaiian pecking order, but the place is more like Windansea -- where I
I was able to pick up a few by jockeying the crowd and lining up the peak, it's an amazing
wave. Builds slowly, pitches in a fast section, gives you a long wall to play on and build up
speed, then a fast bowl to shoot through -- really fun. Trades are offshore all day. I got
away with a lot more than I was expecting, because of the weird crowd psychology. But man, it
was really frustrating too.
It's an hour away from this side of the island -- so I'll only make the trek out there when
the swell is good enough to thin out the crowd and make it worthwhile. But then I suppose
I'll have to deal with the pros who hop over from Oahu when it's good.
We got the school! Woo-hoo!
Wow, this is going to be a trip. We move in on Saturday.